Kerrievis & Easter

A road trip, flowers, panettone, snoek braai, and a cobra

Reading about a Black Spitting Cobra attack near Piketberg was a bit of a wake-up call, as I hadn’t realized that there are spitting cobra in this area¹. It’s a risk we have to be aware of when walking in the veld, especially with Bowie being quite curious and playful.

It was a little frisch [cool] on Sunday morning, we loitered at the cottage before going on our walk. These days, I leave Toby at the house as his hips are quite weak and he is probably in pain after the walk, though enthusiastic to join.

It being Sunday, it was a longer walk, over the top of the koppie and then down the other side. Initially, Bowie was a little restless as we’d left Toby behind, though it wasn’t long until he started scampering about. On the other side of the koppie there’s a plaas dam, where Bowie can have a cooldown, followed by the dry-down zoomies.

Though I have known about kerrievis [pickle fish] for a long time, it was only last year in Namaqualand that I became aware of its link to the Christian celebration of Easter.

“Ons eet Goeie Vrydag kerrievis. Ons eet Saterdag kerrievis. Ons eet Paas Sondag kerrievis. Maandag is daar net nog sous om te eet” - somewhere in Namaqualand

[We eat curried fish on Good Friday. We eat curried fish on Saturday. We eat curried fish on Easter Sunday. On Monday there is only some sauce left to eat.]

I wanted to know more about this kerrievis tradition and did some reading²³⁴⁵⁶. Pickling with brine can be traced to Dutch traditions of preserving fish, such as herring, and was brought to the Cape of Good Hope in the 17th century by the Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie. However, the spices that are used, such as turmeric, coriander, bay leaves, cumin, cinnamon, all spice and cloves, originally come from south-east Asia. It was the enslaved Cape Malay cooks in the kitchens of the Cape colony in the 17th and 18th centuries that developed the dish as a pickled and curried fusion and it is rooted in Cape Malay food culture. It is thought that eating pickled fish over Easter has its origins in the Catholic church, as many Christians abstain from eating meat on Good Friday, and is often served with fresh hot cross buns or homemade bread.

Judging by the current snoek prices ahead of the Easter Weekend, it seems like they were caught while swimming in the Strait of Hormuz - seen on social media

On Monday, Bowie and I were off to see Ouma Astrid and her clan in Lamberts Bay. There was also snoek and kerrievis waiting for us in the Baai.

We drove the Elands Bay route, rather than Clanwilliam, as I wanted to have a quick look at the Fat Pony, where we would be staying overnight. Just after the Elands Bay turn-off, there’s a steep incline. I was behind a big truck when I saw March Lily, a different species from the types I’ve seen this year. Only that one spot, I turned around (don’t live with regrets).

These March Lily were taller than the ones I’ve seen before, and red rather than pink or white. Also, the flowers were bigger with petals. I think these are Chandelier Lily / Perdespookbossie⁷. My fourth March Lily species this year (I have not seen the Spotted Blood Lily this year).

We had a look-in at the Fat Pony, as we’d only be arriving later after sunset, before stopping at the Bokstal for a coffee, cheesecake and gesêlsie. Outside, in the paddock, were the most beautiful horses. It was a nice day for sitting on the stoep enjoying a piece of cheesecake and coffee. I’ve written more about our Bokstal visit here.

Bowie loves seaside walks, exploring the new smells and sights. Black-mussel shells and seaweed are potential food or toys. The breaking waves frighten him; Bowie wants to go for a cool-down. I see him getting braver with those waves. Such a joy to watch!

We had a date at the Mad Hatter’s Coffee Shop in Lamberts Bay, where Monday afternoon is painting class. We were a little early, so we sat outside and I had some spicy nachos. The painting classes are every Tuesday, 2 - 4 pm, with brushes and paints supplied; canvases are available in the print shop around the corner. This week the class was a little sparse, it being the school holidays. However, it was nice to see a few teenagers attending, rather than just old tannies. You can read more about the Mad Hatter’s Coffee Shop and the art classes here.

Bowie and I walked to the Lamberts Bay harbour to see whether snoek boats were coming in. “Die snoek is op sy kop” [the snoek are lying on their head]. They’re not biting even though the fishermen can see schools of fish on their sonars. Only one boat came in, absolutely no fish. The same the previous day, I was told, the boat trailers were heading south. There were a few people catching bait fish. About the same time last year, the harbour was heaving!

We visited Ouma early evening. A lekker gesêlsie, then the teenager, Ravi, Bowie and I went to the beach for the dogs to have a run-around and swim. Ravi was playing old man, he wasn’t in the mood for Bowie, who was a bit confused. But I’m so delightful, why don’t you want to play with me?

Dinner was rookwors [smoked sausage] with mashed potatoes and Sauerkraut. I’ve not previously had rookwors, which was baie lekker. And then, Ma mixed the Sauerkraut in with the mash before serving. I’ve always had then separate, but the mixture added another dimension, and I’ll be doing the same when I have kraut & mash.

Bowie and I spent Monday night at the Fat Pony farm cottage, which is nearly exactly halfway between Elands Bay and Lamberts Bay; 20 km each way, I was told. A delightful place that has old-world charm with recently updated facilities. It’s in the Sandveld region, where they are currently busy harvesting potatoes.

Bowie got quite comfortable under the duvet, he had crept in early morning, and I could thus enjoy a coffee before we went for a walk. No rush, sunrise was only at 7 am, and we had a rather relaxed schedule for the pad back to the cottage.

As I was dropping off the house key before leaving, a foal ambled over to greet us. Read more about our stay and the cottage here.

We had kerrievis and snoek to pick up at the Mad Hatters Coffee shop. Ja, and then I had the lekker French Toast and got some buchu tea, buchu chocolate and fig mustard.

We were driving to Piket-Bo-Berg the longer route, via Clanwilliam, as I wanted to get some farm-fresh mango at De Kleine Stoor. It’s a nice place to stop for a coffee and short walk, while Bowie gets the full puppy-loving treatment.

I cannot define the taste of the dried dragon fruit; pleasant, slightly earthy? The mango’s are exceptional, it’s a shame the season is coming to an end.

I’m supposed to be losing weight, but don’t help myself by not buying lekker things.

There were 4 snoek in the back of the car for delivery on the Bo-Berg before we finally got back to the cottage. ‘Special Edition’, that’s me, forgot to count himself in, but I got a nice slice from the antie down the road.

Wednesday was a stay-at-home day, catching up on laundry, writing two Langsie Pad Substack: “Coffee & Cheesecake at the Bokstal” and then “Painting Class & French Toast at the Mad Hatter’s coffee shop, Lamberts Bay.”

Bowie and I had a nice long walk. The Candelabra Lilies flower heads are now drying, waiting for the winds to roll them around and spread the seeds. I saw a Blood Lily with its characteristic two leaves; soon the red stem and seeds will also be dust. A mauve sorrel and budding sugarbush, beautiful.

On Thursday, I had an Easter panettone to collect at Moorrees Bakery, which I had ordered at the Piket-Bo-Berg Farmer’s Market on Saturday. I’d wanted to do kerrievis and hot cross buns on Easter Friday, but changed to panettone as the bakery weren’t making the buns. And I wasn’t lus for supermarket hot cross buns wrapped in plastic.

However, before driving to Moorreesburg, I had a few things to do. You know, get off my procrastination list.

One of the was making final (I hope) changes to my KUDU Journal submission, working title: “A Year in Namaqualand.” I’m really grateful to editor Claudio for his advice and guidance. I hope the story lands well, once published. That email’s been sent.

Next was a “review” of the Rider’s Rest farm cottage, previously referred to as the Fat Pony cottage, where Bowie and I stayed on Monday night. That one is done and dusted and published⁸.

I also had to get an Accident Report at Piketberg Police Station. A first for me, as was the Case Report for my car insurers. It been a ding-a-ling week, as I’ve dinged (bumped) the car twice and then it got dinged again by a car trailer being backed out of a tight spot. These things happen; we’ll get it sorted. The policeman in Piketberg was clearly a novice, I think it was his first time writing up an accident. And then it had to be in English, as my Afrikaans gets a bit wobbly when it gets to technicalities. Dan kan ek aan die hakel raak! [I start stuttering!]

A few bags dropped off at the Recycling Centre, and we were on the pad to Moorreesburg. When we arrived at Moorrees Bakery, Bagel came to greet us; he’s the bakery dog. As soon as Bagel and Bowie saw each other, they lost the plot, happily chasing each other around the parking lot. Pa se senuwees! [Dad’s nerves!] Fortunately, no cars drove in, though there was an accident. Bagel, in his excitement, wasn’t looking where he was going and did an Eben⁹ on a plant plot. Moer toe! [in pieces!] The plant pot, I don’t think Bagel even noticed.

It was raining, we sat on the stoep with the dogs play fighting next to us. This time, the outdoor garden was safe from a trampling by the dogs.

M.B. and I had a catch-up about life, travel plans, the price of fuel. The Moorrees menu is tantalizingly different, I wonder what the local tannies make of it. I had Smoked Beef Korean Egg Roll, which was served on Japanese milk bread, and a Rooibos Cappucino. I must say, my “toastie” was very lekker, I ate the whole thing while M.B. could only finish half of her sandwich.

I got my pre-ordered panettone¹⁰ and promptly got another one. One panettone is going to be part of my kerrievis lunch on Easter Friday, the other one I will keep for a bread pudding on Sunday or have with zabaglione¹¹, if I remember to buy eggs and marsala wine.

The Moorrees Bakery make their panettone with sourdough, egg yolks, honey, raisins and dried fruit steeped in orange juice.

It was raining hard on Easter Friday morning, tear drops from heaven (20 mm overnight). Bowie stayed on the bed until there was a break in the rain and we could go for a walk. We were quite fortunate, as the rain started again as we entered the cottage. Bowie lay down under the table at first and then decided that the bed was more comfortable.

The kerrievis treat was special, as I had expected (no pressure!). I brought two tubs back from Lamberts Bay, which I had bought at the Mad Hatter’s Coffee Shop: kabeljou¹² and geelbek¹³. Instead of hot cross buns, as is traditional, I mopped up the sous [sauce] with slices of panettone.

I hadn’t been to the dorp for grocery shopping for a while and had run out of treats for Bowie. Thus, Saturday was the day, we set off early, Spar opens at 07:30.

After the shopping, it was quite quiet in town, Bowie and I had a short walk in the dorp. The clouds were still sitting on top of the Piketberg, there was a dense fog at the top of the pass when we drove into town.

Bowie doesn’t know cats and he was quite fascinated by this creature sitting on the windowsill. Later, we saw the rabbits, which was a longer stop.

The Crazy Cat Coffee Shop was closed, probably due to it being Easter weekend, which I applaud. Maybe we could have a walk on the Dennegeur farm? The gate was closed and we continued on to the Kruisementsvlei farm. There were a few weekend visitors. “Hulle is almal mak” [they’re all tame], said R.B., “julle kan maar gaan stap” [you can go for a walk].

At the end of the walk, there’s a small paddock with the most beautiful white horse. Bowie wasn’t entirely sure about this big creature and, as I don’t know this horse, we walked away before there was trouble.

I picked some quince (with permission), I stewed them into a nice compote on Sunday. Another one of those childhood memories, our mother would pick them on the Zevenwacht farm, which was a delipidated ruin in those days.

This story has come a full circle: a snake. Bowie and I were on a walk when I saw eyes in the ground, looking at us out of a burrow. The head came out and flared, a cobra. Only a small one, fortunately, about 15 cm long. Bowie seemed to sense danger and lay down behind me, a safe distance away.

I didn’t want to kill the snake and went to get a bucket to take it somewhere into the veld. I don’t have snake tongs and the snake slipped back into its burrow. I placed the bucket over the burrow entrance as a warning to A&C. I would try a rescue again on Sunday.

Contrary to popular belief, snakes do not hibernate but rather brumate¹⁴. This means that they are not “fully unconscious and remain semi-alert throughout the winter…and may briefly emerge during unexpected warm periods.”

We were invited for dinner at Kruisementvlei, which is a 10-minute drive to the other side of the valley. It’s slightly scary for Bowie, as we’re always greeted by at least 4 barking dogs and it took a few minutes to coax Bowie out of the car. The big bully was onto Bowie, barking loudly, and 20 seconds later all was good. These are the only dogs I know that will bark while they’re getting a head scratch. Mal goed! (said with a smile)

A braai was being prepared, we would be having one of the snoek that I had brought back from Lamberts Bay.

All was good until a chicken started clucking in the flower beds. That had Buchu and Bowie, both collies, running after the chickens, and R.B. after the dogs. Pa was highly embarrassed by his dog! Eventually, and it took a while, all the chickens were in the coop.

Behind the chickens were sheep and lambs, which also piqued Bowie’s interest. Fortunately, behind a fence and Bowie didn’t find a way in. Bowie did wander off a few times and then lost interest as there was a boy with a ball.

Sitting around a fire with nice people, having a lekker gesêls (nice conversation), is unbeatable. I cannot remember all the topics we covered, from caves in the koppies to risky sports to education and even religion. We quickly veered from the last topic, religion and politics should stay out of any conversation.

Jeff was braaing and the snoek was excellent! We actually had two snoek and came close to finishing both. Eight adults, that was good going. Not to forget the salads, which were also exceptional. Ja, and the lekker chilli sauce, which had a hint of ginger. And patats [sweet potatoes].

No poeding, rather blocks of chocolate and marshmallow Easter eggs. So lekker!

Two kids, R.B.’s grandchildren, so well behaved and entertaining. The older one was playing ball with Bowie, then went to watch a movie. The younger one was paging through a bird book and got all excited when he found the eagle that he had seen with ouma the previous day. And mom, her third child was due the same day!

And Bowie? Other than the chickens and sheep, he was well behaved. He was a bit whiny at dinner because Pa had neglected to feed him (with the other dogs around, I was worried about a fight). R.B. brought him a bowl of kibbles, which Bowie wolfed down, the other dogs didn’t give a hoot. Bowie then lay down next to my chair and fell asleep. It had been quite a social evening for him.

To those that celebrate: Frohe Ostern, Blessed Easter. Geseënde Paasfees!

1. Black Spitting Cobra (Naja nigricincta woodi) [African Reptiles & Venom]

2. The Culture of Kaapse Kerrievis [The Namibian]

3. Food as Archive: Kerrievis / Pickled Fish [Nadia Kamies Writer]

4. Kerrievis, easter eggs en die hot cross buns... [Son Digitaal]

5. Recipe: Cape Malay Pickled Fish [Collection McGrath]

6. An Archive of Food [Nadia Kamies Writer]

7. Brunsvigia orientalis. Family: Amaryllidaceae; Common names: candelabra flower, red candelabra flower, king candelabra, chandelier lily, chandelier plant, sore-eye flower (Eng.), ajuinbol, koningskandelaarblom, kandelaarblom, kandelaarlelie, lantanter, Maartblom, marsblom, perdespookbossie, rolbossie, seeroogblom and tanteletant (Afr.) [SANBI]

8. An overnight stay at the Rider’s Rest farm cottage [Substack: Langsie Pad]

9. I’m referring to the Springbok’s enforcer, Eben Etzebeth,

10. Panettone: The origin of the word is to be found in the Milanese dialect panattón, augmentative of pan (’bread’), or panett (’small bread containing a large amount of yeast’). The augmentative suffix -one changes the meaning to ‘large bread’ [Wikipedia]

11. Crema allo Zabaione (Zabaglione Recipe) [Recipes from Italy]

12. Dusky Kob (Kabeljou) – Species Profile [I love fishing]

13. What’s that Fish – Geelbek [leisure boating]

14. Do Snakes Come Out in Winter? What You Need to Know [Biology Insights]